Climbing for Courage: Honoring Dougie at 18,500 Feet

Today we pushed out of Everest Base Camp for some uphill work, climbing to Advanced Base Camp (ABC) for Mount Pumori at 18,500 ft.

It was my first trek with the Mountain Professionals team – lots of rock scrambling and battling fierce winds halfway up.

We dedicated today’s climb to Dougie, a remarkable 13-year-old from Martinsville, VA, who is bravely fighting lymphoma. Even before his diagnosis, Dougie was a champion for special ed students at his school, helping others without ever expecting anything in return.

As we made our final steps, a snowstorm rolled in, dropping about 3 inches of fresh powder—an unforgettable end to a tough training day.

Thank you to Jason Wang for the drone video!

Everest Base Camp – Rest Day 2

Today was our second rest day at Everest Base Camp, and the highlight was a powerful spiritual ceremony led by a lama from the Tengboche Monastery, about 15 miles away. I asked our expedition coordinator if the lama could bless the photos of each child we’re climbing for, and he gladly agreed, placing every child’s picture directly in front of his prayer book. Each and every child was seen and honored during the ceremony, which lasted about 90 minutes.

At the end, the lama tied a red string around my neck and placed a kata—a long white silk scarf traditionally given for good luck—around my shoulders, offering blessings for a long life.

After the puja, we celebrated with the Sherpas, dancing and marking each other’s faces with white flour as a symbol of safe journeys on the mountain.

In other news, a podcast I recorded while in Kathmandu—The Courageous Podcast with host Ryan Berman—was published today. You can listen to it here: The Courageous Podcast

I also connected with Ben Ayers, a writer for Outsideonline who will be arriving at Base Camp around the same time we return from our first rotation.

Finally, I spoke with Matt—he’s safely in Doha, Qatar, staying at the Hyatt near the airport before his early morning flight to Dulles airport.

Rest Day at Base Camp: Gratitude and Reflection

Finally, a rest day – no trekking, no packing up, not even a set time to report for breakfast. Despite being up at 17,500 feet, I enjoyed the best night’s sleep of the entire trip. (Just two nights ago in Lobuche, I only managed about three hours of sleep and dragged myself into camp exhausted!) Today, it was awesome to feel no pressure to be anywhere. Matt and I could  relax in our lounge tent or the dining tent, let our bodies  recover and recharge.

Around noon, the three other climbers who will join Ryan Waters and me on the summit push returned from their three-day climb of Mount Lobuche. We all gathered for lunch.  Matt (from Boston) and Grace & Jason (a couple from San Francisco) are our new teammates, and I’m thrilled to have them on board. I’ll share more of their individual stories later, but for now I’m just grateful for the camaraderie and team spirit they bring.

After lunch, Matt, our Sherpa guide Nanga, and I took a short walk down to the edge of the Khumbu Icefall. This towering maze of ice seracs is the gateway to the upper mountain – and the most dangerous section of the climb. I’ll climb through that next week on our first rotation up to Camp One and Camp Two. For today, though, it was enough to share it with Matt from a safe distance,

Matt and I also recorded a couple of short “thank you” videos to express our gratitude to Livestrong and Parents for helping share our mission and purpose. These organizations have shone a spotlight on our journey, and we couldn’t be more thankful. In fact, the Parents article about our climb was picked up by major outlets like MSN and Yahoo News, spreading the word about Hopecam’s mission even further.

It’s heartwarming to know that so many people are learning about why we’re here: to ensure children with cancer can stay connected to their friends and not feel so alone during treatment.

On that note, Livestrong recently announced the publication of a new children’s book about cancer that our very own Brett Fox (Hopecam’s Director of Operations and Philanthropy) co-wrote in partnership with Livestrong. The book, titled My Brave Friend: Emma and Noah Face Cancer Together, is now available. It’s a wonderful story aimed at helping young kids understand a classmate’s cancer diagnosis in an age-appropriate way. We’re so proud of this collaboration with Livestrong – it’s yet another example of how teamwork and compassion can create resources that make a real difference for families dealing with cancer.

I am also excited to share that Northern Virginia Magazine published an article about our journey today. Hometown support means a lot, and this piece helps spread awareness in our local community about what we’re trying to accomplish here on Everest. The more people know about Hopecam’s mission – to connect children undergoing cancer treatment with their friends and classrooms – the closer we get to our goal of raising $1 million so no child has to fight cancer in isolation.

Matt and I retired early last night, and by 6:20 a.m, we arrived at the helipad. Matt was set to return to Lukla and then Kathmandu this afternoon, followed by an early flight to Doha, Qatar, before finally arriving home in Virginia on Sunday afternoon. I’m going to miss him terribly.

Matt Leaving Everest Base Camp

Everest Base Camp Arrival

We set off from the Pyramid Hotel near Lobuche at 7:30 AM, aiming to reach Everest Base Camp by 2:00 PM. The hotel also functions as an atmospheric, seismic, and air quality research facility, and the manager graciously gave us a tour before our departure.

The trail was bustling with fellow trekkers, mules, horses, and yaks, requiring patience and camaraderie as we navigated the narrow paths.

A memorable stop at Gorak Shep, the last village before Base Camp, offered a buzzing atmosphere and a chance encounter with Kami Rita Sherpa—the world record holder for the most Everest summits (30 as of 2024). I first met him in 2023 when he had summited 25 times; his achievements are truly inspiring. We snapped a picture together.

We shared the trail with new friends from Australia and Spain, including Javi, a seasoned traveler and digital content creator who has explored over 100 countries. Together, we reached Base Camp at 1:30 PM, capturing a team photo with our guides. A final 45-minute hike led us to the Mountain Professionals campsite, nestled among a vibrant community of over 500 climbers and 3,000 support personnel. We were treated to an amazing lunch and dinner in a large heated dome tent with ample internet.

Finally, my outreach to nationally syndicated iHeartRadio DJ Michael J paid off— he called me live on the air from his Baltimore studio to discuss our trek and the upcoming summit attempt. Michael generously offered to help spread the word about Hopecam’s mission: connecting children battling cancer with their classrooms and friends during treatment. His support during my 2017 Race Across America was instrumental in reaching our $1 million fundraising goal.

Grateful for the journey, the connections made, and the adventures ahead.

Today we trekked for Hopecam child Annabelle. Annabelle loves to use her Chromebook from Hopecam for long-distance meetings/appointments with medical staff and to watch America's Funniest Home Videos for some laughs! She told me “Mr. Len- you should know that my favorite color is the rainbow, and I hope you see one on your journey!”.

Dingboche to Lobuche

As Matt and I filled up on pancakes and hash browns this morning, we reflected on how fast this trek has flown by.

Now just two days from Everest Base Camp, we’re feeling both relieved and a little sad—our time together is almost up. Our last big adventure together was Shanghai in 2019, and this one has taken us to new heights. (No pun intended😁)

We’ll reach Base Camp Wednesday afternoon. Matt will likely fly back to Kathmandu late Thursday or Friday, and I’ll join the Mountain Professionals summit team to begin the next phase—training and acclimatizing at altitudes up to 23,000 feet.

Today’s trek took us from Dingboche across the Khumbu plateau, passing Pheriche where helicopters buzz in and out ferrying climbers and gear. The valley views were stunning—cathedral-like peaks surrounding us: Ama Dablam, Lobuche, and Pumo Ri.

We had an early ramen lunch in Tukla, then ascended steeply to a plateau lined with stone memorials honoring lost climbers. I paused at Scott Fischer’s—his story etched into history by Into Thin Air.

We arrived at our stop for the night: the Pyramid International Laboratory, a hotel and research center shaped like its name. Tomorrow, the final approach.

Today we trekked for Hopecam child Ariel. Ariel’s mom told us that Hopecam has made a difference. Ariel can see her friends and teacher when she can’t go to school. She wants to be a doctor or nurse when she grows up. Her favorite activity with Hopecam is playing Roblox with her friends.

“Len, I enjoy painting and that I am going to beat this cancer!” - Ariel

Dingboche

Another unforgettable day in the Khumbu. After a relaxed breakfast, we hit the trail at 9:15 AM under a flawless blue sky with crisp air and light winds. Today’s acclimatization goal: Mt. Nangkartshang. We climbed 1,500 feet to a high point at 15,700 feet—just enough to prepare our lungs for the bigger ascent to Lobuche tomorrow. The trail was dry and dusty from the unusually harsh winter, but it was also beautiful—lined with prayer flags, rock cairns, and stone memorials to those who came before us.

We stopped at the monument where the trail splits toward Lobuche, took some photos with the Dutch family we met the day before, then made our way down slowly, taking it all in.

After ramen at the lodge, we visited Cafe 4410, a cozy café that felt like home—pillowed couches, great coffee, fresh pizza, and  chocolate cake. At 2PM, the daily Everest film played—a sobering Discovery Channel documentary about the 2014 Khumbu Icefall collapse that killed 14 Sherpas and shut down the mountain for the season.

Before dinner, I took a Zoom call with a reporter from Northern Virginia Magazine—they’ll be featuring our Hopecam mission in their May issue, and I couldn’t be more proud.

Dinner was classic chicken dal bhat.  We talked with Kristina, a solo mom of two from Dallas trekking to base camp, and a Sherpa guide who earned his master’s in electrical engineering from Boise State before returning home to help run the family lodge.

Just before bed, I stepped onto the balcony and snapped a photo of Ama Dablam glowing under a sky full of stars. Tomorrow we’re only village away from our final goal for the trek.

Today we trekked for Hopecam child Ian. Ian uses his Hopecam during doctor appointments, on airplane rides, and while he's resting. Ian's best friend is his dad and he loves playing Fortnite and Party Animals (video games).

Road to Dingboche

We checked out of our hotel in Deboche and began the trek to Dingboche under a brilliantly clear sky. The views were spectacular—50 miles of uninterrupted line-of-sight to Everest, Lhotse, Ama Dablam, Nuptse, and more.

The trail was alive with energy—hundreds of trekkers, porters, locals, mules, and zāos (yak hybrids). We crossed the dudh kosi River for the last time, the river begins at Everest Base Camp at the base of the infamous Khumbu Icefall—one of the first major challenges on the climb.

Ama Dablam stole the show today. Often called the “Matterhorn of the Himalayas,” it was simply breathtaking. We stopped for lunch in Khumjung—vegetable curry—and chatted with a family of four from the Netherlands. Their 9- and 10-year-olds trekking through the Himalayas? Inspiring.

As clouds rolled in, we crossed a broad plateau where the Khumbu and Tsola rivers split before joining to form the Dudh Koshi River, which flows all the way to Namche. After 6.3 miles and a 2,500-foot ascent, we arrived in Dingboche at 14,226 ft. Two nights here to acclimatize before heading to Lobuche—the final village before Base Camp.

Today we trekked for Hopecam child Alison. Alison's favorite way to use her Hopecam tablet is by playing learning games and watching videos that make her laugh. Hopecam helps Alison the most during her chemotherapy treatments by keeping her calm.

Meet Hopecam Child Alison

Meet Hopecam Child Alison

Yak Traffic

Namche to DeBoche

We have been blessed with the best weather each and every day of this trek. Every day has been sunny or partly cloudy and the rain has only come once in the evening we like the rain because washes the animal dung off the path. This is the reason we have to cover our nose and mouth with our neck buffs when we trek because the dung dries and pulverizes into  dust and mixes with the dirt.  When it’s very dry on the trail the dust is in the air and it can cause a “Khumbu Cough” which takes weeks to recover from.

The night time temperatures drop below freezing which makes for a chili wake since our rooms have no heat. We packed up our duffels which will be carried by Chirring our porter to the hotel in DeBoche. Chirring is 27 lives in Lukla with his wife and two daughters. He must weigh less than 130 lbs but easily lifts our two 40 lb bags with the ease of a linebacker. Once we launch for the day after a breakfast of eggs and toast and start moving uphill our bodies quickly warm up and we shed layers within 15 minutes. I’m comfortable in short sleeves with Temperatures in the low 60’s because the effort moving uphill keeps me warm.

The trek to Deboche requires a 700 ascent followed by a 1400 descent down to the river and then a  1600 ascent to the village of Tengboche. We stopped for lunch at the river crossing at a tea house and bumped into Heath and Emily from Lincoln NE, who we met on our first night in Phadking.

After a few well earned rest stops as we ascend we are rewarded with a view of a small cell tower, which marks  the top of the mountain and the end of the climb for the day.

The Tengboche Monastery is one of the largest in Nepal and sits atop the hill. We paid the entry fee…removed our shoes and entreated  the main room where 30 Tibetan and Nepalese monks were chanting to a drumbeat from two 6 ft tall drums hanging in the room at the entrance.

Tengboche Monastery

Tengboche Monastery

We were joined by 12 fellow trekkers sitting on pads at the perimeter of the room. The ceremony which has already commenced lasted another 20 minutes.

The trek to our hotel was 20 minutes downhill thankfully and we arrived at the Rivendale hotel.

The rooms were spacious  with twin beds with electric heating pads - shower and toilet. Luxurious by most standards on the trail.

Passing a “Stupa”

Today we trekked for Akayla. She told me “Mr. Len your climbing the mountain to honor me and other Hopecam kids like me is so amazing.” Hopecam has saved her a lot of time going back and forth to school to make sure she stays up with her classes by not missing work. She wants to be a pediatric nurse to help kids.

Namche- Rest Day

Today we recovered from one of the longest and most grueling trekking days getting to Namche.

After breakfast we headed to the Everest View Hotel at 13,000 feet for lemon and ginger tea and the hope of getting a glimpse of the big mountain. Unfortunately the clouds had another plan but we did see Namche from a different perspective. The word Namche means “bowl” in Nepalese and it’s an excellent name because the terraces bowl shaped slopes carved into the mountainside defines the town.

After a quick shower, we had lunch at the pizza shop near the hotel and I enjoyed the last beer of the expedition. Alcohol and altitude don’t mix well because I was half asleep after lunch. I asked Ngawang to help me find a tshirt shop to buy gifts for the Hopecam kids. He randomly took me to the exact same shop that I bought gifts the last time I was here and the clerk remembered me.

My favorite hat had a cartoon of three animals with the words YAK YAK YAK. Best of all we arranged for the large package of patches hats and shirts to be delivered to the Lukla airport so Matt can retrieve them on his journey back to the USA next week.

Today we honored a boy named Matthew from New Jersey. Matthew loves to play video games with his brother and wants to be a video game developer when he grows up. He enjoys using his Hopecam to read online books and surf the web. We trek to Debouche next.

Phakding to Namche Bazaar – The Heart of the Khumbu

We hit the trail at 8:30 am, leaving Phakding behind and heading toward the iconic village of Namche Bazaar, often called the “Downtown of the Khumbu.” While Lukla has the airport and a hospital, Namche is surprisingly four times larger—despite having no road access. Everything here arrives by foot, hoof, or helicopter.

The trail was impressively well-built—stone-paved paths, steps with handrails, and six dramatic suspension bridges crossing the Dudh Kosi River. The final bridge was over a football field long, swaying under the weight of single-file parades of yaks, dzos, and mules. With 50+ pack animals coming at you, you wait your turn—or risk getting shoved off the trail.

We climbed more than 3,500 feet over 6.5 miles, and for the first time, the snow-capped Himalayas came into full view. As we gained elevation, the towering pine trees gave way to shorter forest—and thinner air.

We reached Namche at 3 pm and collapsed into a two-hour nap at a surprisingly luxurious lodge: hot showers, twin beds, and panoramic mountain views. That night, we shared stories with trekkers from Spain, Israel, France, and Japan. The Israeli group had just completed three years in the military—and were enjoying some well-earned freedom.

We’ve reached 11,000 feet above sea level, and the thin air is definitely noticeable. I spent 10 weeks sleeping in a hypoxic tent—over 400 hours at a simulated 15,000 feet—to prepare for this. Meanwhile, Matt is holding his own like a pro, fueled by his training on the Appalachian Trail.

Today, our climb was dedicated to Adalynn, a brave young girl from Tennessee who’s about to begin a bone marrow transplant. Her strength and spirit fuel our purpose on this journey.

Tomorrow is a lighter day as we continue acclimatizing. We’ll spend one more night here in Namche Bazaar before heading out Saturday toward Deboche.

Lukla to Phadking

An early morning start at 7:00 am with a pickup at the Aloft Hotel in Kathmandu and a short drive to the domestic terminal at Kathmandu airport for a heli ride to Lukla where our journey to Everest Base Camp begins. Like most unconventional travel it’s hurry up and wait - since the chopper needed a pilot and the pilot was flying another route we were finally picked up at 10 am.

Before though while waiting, we met an 29 Yr old professional photographer from Golden CO Jason Weiss who was on his way to Everest Base Camp on the Tibet side of the mountain. He was flying to Lukla to acclimatize while waiting for his permit from the Chinese government to enter Lhasa. 

It had rained the night before and when the chopper ascended the visibility was much better than expected. The route takes about 45 minutes and we passed over dozens of valleys and mountain peaks with terrace farms covering most of the landscape. Primitive dirt roads wind their way across the vallley and up the mountain sides giving access to these mini farms and the small villages. We could see through the light phase the outline of Everest, Lhotse and Ama Dhablam in the background. 

The runway at the Hilary-Norgay airport in Lukla is quite the site - sloping at 10 degrees it’s the shortest runway and most dangerous landing of any airport in the world. We were thankful to be in the heli and not in the prop planes that often take off and land there. 



Our 47 year old guide, Ngawang, a tall Nepalese man whose lives a 1/4 mile from Lukla with his wife and two daughters, met us at the landing pad and took us to a small tea house before starting our trek. Chirring, a 20 yr old Sherpa grabbed our duffle bags and followed us to the lunch spot. We filled our water bottles and after a warm cup of lemon ginger tea our adventure began.

The trail to base camp passes thorough dozens of small and mid size villages as we share the trail with mules, zhaos, porters, villagers, guides,  trekkers and climbers moving in both directions to and from Lukla. Dodging animal excrement, the large granite rocks and mud was the theme for today as we trekked 4.2 miles and 700 ft of uphill and 1400 ft downhill.

We stopped at Ngawang‘s house along the trek for lunch. He operates a small tea house with a restaurant and bunk rooms for trekkers with his wife and two teenage daughters. Tall juniper trees surrounded most of the trail as we winded though the valley with the sound of the rushing cascading water of the Dhuhd Kosi river hundred of yards below.

We arrived in the village of Phadking at 3 pm and checked in at the Trekker Tea House Hotel. We met a few fellow trekkers from Germany, India and Lincoln, Nebraska over dinner as we talked about the journey ahead. The tea houses have no heat so my only luxury (a small battery powered electric blanket) kept me warm as we bunked at 9 pm. I’m very proud of Matt who was physically and mentally prepared for the trek today, hiking dozens of times on the Appalachian trail in prep for the challenge. 

Today, we dedicated our climb to Savannah and Bryson—best friends, both just 7 years old, and both bravely fighting the same battle: Medulloblastoma brain cancer. Their strength, courage, and unbreakable spirits inspire us and give deeper meaning to every step of this journey.

A Day in Kathmandu

Matt and I moved to the Aloft hotel in the Thamel district. It was the place I stayed in 2023 and by far one of the nicest hotels in Nepal. We arranged a city tour with a private guide and visited the Boudhanath Stupa, a religious site in the center of town. Our guide was very knowledgeable about the Hindu and Buddhist religions and the importance of Kathmandu as one of the oldest cities in the world.

Later we drove to the Pashupatinath Temple and cremation grounds where we visited many mausoleum’s and witnessed the burial and cremation ceremony for the Hindu people. Watching a real funeral pyre was a first for both of us.

Smoke from the funeral pyres

Some very curious characters in this park including silver back macaque monkeys and shaman like person called a “Baba”. Baba - Sadhus are Hindu holy men (or ascetics) who have renounced worldly life in pursuit of spiritual enlightenment.

At 4:00 pm the rain began and we headed back to the hotel. The rain was very welcome because the pollution in Kathmandu ranks as the 11th worst in the world. That will make for a clear day to fly tomorrow to Lukla. We both scheduled massages before dinner and called an early night with a 6:45 am pickup set for Wednesday morning.

Stay Tuned.

The Boudhanath Stupa in the background - dates back to the 5th century

Kathmandu Arrival

Early morning arrival at the Kathmandu hotel “The Mulberry” at 8:30 am after arriving in Kathmandu airport after a late night flight from Dubai. Our local guide Mingma met us at the airport exit and we checked in after trying on our Mountain Professional swag. Flying for 30 hours non stop over 9+ time zones takes a toll so we both caught up in sleep in 3-4 hour increments during the day.

Later we navigated the streets of the Thamel neighborhood with Mingma stopping for pizza at The Roadhouse restaurant. It was Nepali New Year 2082, so traffic was light and a lot of locals on the street shopping on a holiday day off.

Later that evening I was honored to be a guest on a “The Courageous Podcast” with host Ryan Berman. We talked about the driving forces that motivate us to act and his belief is Knowledge + Faith + Action = Courage.

Later the chair at my hotel desk collapsed and I landed on the broken chair leg ripping a big gash across my forearm. After some bandages and neosporin I’m all patched up and I’ve packed my bags for an early transfer to the Marriott Aloft hotel, just a few blocks away.

Stay tuned!

On my way to Mt. Everest!

Long day to get to Katmandu for Matt and me, starting with United flight from Dulles to Newark at 5:30 pm. We had a four hour layover so no rush until a 1 hour weather delay and then on the approach to the landing the pilot aborted due to cross winds - which added another 30 minutes, then a 15 minute taxi to the Newark gate, and another 15 minute wait to get an open gate. We arrived at the gate as they were boarding. My upgrades weren’t honored and we ended up in coach for the 14 hour flight. I’m a very experienced flyer and the cabin for this flight was the most dense I’ve ever seen. United fit 10 seats in an aisle on plane designed for 9 seats. The seats are 1.2” more narrow than normal and the aisles are more narrow as well. So we felt like sardines but hey that’s international travel. We arrive at 8:00 am and will meet up with our local guide in Katmandu.

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