We started our day at 6:00 a.m. under bright daylight, with the steady crunch of boots on snow as climbers passed our camp en route to Camp 2. In the background, you could hear coughing, spitting, and the chatter of Nepalese voices. I had rolled into my tent at 3:00 a.m. after spending nine grueling hours navigating the Khumbu Icefall—a relentless stretch of full-contact climbing. For the next 16 hours, I focused on recovery: resting, eating, drinking, and peeing into my 1.5-liter Nalgene bottle.
Climbing the Icefall demands everything: ladders, ascenders, ropes, belays, harnesses, helmets, headlamps, crampons, triple boots, glacier glasses to guard against snow blindness, and a thick layer of sunscreen—especially on your ears and beneath your nose. The sun’s reflection off the snow (radiation) can burn parts of your body you’d never imagine.
Breakfast was a classic freeze-dried combo of mashed potatoes and mac and cheese. I went to The bathroom in my vestibule holding up a gray "wag bag" to my rear as I squatted in the privacy of my solo tent. With the potty tent at Camp 1 long been moved to Camp 2 so that's the ritual at C1 but it's the best feeling to get that over with and not have to deal with the urge during the climb to C2.
By 8:00 a.m., the sun began to bake the Western CWM, turning the glacier into a furnace. It gets stupid hot out there. At 7:30 a.m., Matt, Grace, and Jason arrived at Camp 1 after climbing all night, reaching Camp 2 at 11:30 a.m. I was amazed at their stamina climbing for over 11 hours without out rest.
During our own climb, we stopped every hour to recharge and rehydrate. As we neared the entrance to Camp 2, one of the cooks met us with orange juice and even offered to shoulder my backpack for the final 30-minute push to camp. We arrived, rested, and set up our tents, waiting for lunch in the dining tent at 1:30 p.m.
There, we were joined by the legendary Argentina Climber Willie Benegas. He is supported logistically by the same team Ryan uses. He is solo guiding an Argentinian climber to the summit. Both are fast &capable climbers.
Saturday is a full rest and recovery day at Camp 2. On Sunday, we begin our push to Camp 3.
We climbed for Hopecam kid Oliver. Oliver uses his Hopecam to keep himself entertained during his long days of chemo and in the hospital. When he grows up, he wants to be a swim instructor. Hopecam has provided him with the ability to help him learn schoolwork while away from home. Today was for you Oliver!
