South Pole Expedition Highlights

Many years ago I studied architecture and our professors always encouraged students to always carry a sketch book to document their experiences especially when travelling to new places. The practice stuck with me and I always enjoy sketching and diagramming the places I visit in a graphic journal to remind me of the memorable highlights and capture logistics planning and preparation before the trip and the unique places/people encountered along the journey. These pictures are my field notes during the expedition to the South Pole. I’ve captured the same images for each of the highest mountain summits I’ve climbed on six continents which I intend to publish in a book in 2025.

I hope you enjoy reading them as much as I enjoyed drawing them.

Photos From the South Pole

Below are photos from my journey to the South Pole.

Arrival At The South Pole

The weather on this trip has been absolutely perfect. Every day sunny & still...beautiful blue sky (except Wednesday pm) & NO WIND. Yesterday we stopped at 10:30 for our first rest stop and we could see a glimmering light ahead of us. It was the reflection of the sun on the Research Center building over 12 miles away. Finally SOMETHING other than sky and snow to look at. Like a mirage it would appear then fade as we skied across undulating ice. The depth of the clear blue sky is hard to describe. We are in a place with absolutely the purest air on the planet and you can feel it when you breathe. We now can appreciate the texture of the snow, the slight shadows cast by the sun hitting snow called "sastrugi" waves of small textured terraces formed by the wind. It’s like crossing a desert except the waves of snow are the sand dunes. Why am I describing the texture of snow? Because it's all I've had to look at for six days outside of the team I'm skiing with.

I'm blown away how fast this week has passed. Sure there have been some hardships like blisters, cold hands and sleeping in a barrell tent in -20 F temps, but like any epic journey you come away different.  More appreciative of what we have and how beautiful the Polar plateaux really is. I think about the hardships our Hopecam kids endure. The radiation, chemo and surgeries don't even compare. Polar skiing is a walk in the park (or tundra) in comparison.  I'm honored to be supported by the children,  their families, sponsors and many others to take in these projects.

This morning our team set off at 9:15 am for the last 4+ miles of our adventure. First time during the expedition we woke up to fog and strong winds.  We could see in the distance the silhouette of the two story U.S National Science Foundation Research center building, adjacent to the pole. As we approached the camp we were amazed to see 20' satellite dishes, large white radar/weather domes, & large areas where flags were placed for testing for environment purposes. We could see the dozens of yellow tents forming the ALE South Pole Camp. We stopped skiing and entered the white Quonset hut where hot meals are prepared by the ALE chefs. Sitting at a table in a warm structure after 7 days of winter camping and skiing was a great feeling. Shedding our layers and thawing our frozen hands and feet.

After some hot soup and grilled chorizo we left the warm building to set up our tents and then put on our skis to visit the ceremonial South Pole where a large reflective globe is set on top of a red and white barber pole. Flags from the twelve countries that are part of the Antarctic Treaty signed in my birth year of 1959.

We all took pictures at the globe and a professional photographer named Stein Retzlaff (@steinretzlaff) volunteered to take pictures of each of us at the pole. Together as a team each of the members of our team held up the photographs of all our Hopecam kids as we videotaped a beautiful thank you to all our sponsors & Hopecam kids. After we took individual pics, we then skied another 5 min to the "Geographic South Pole" and took pictures as a team there. The pole moves 20 ft a year and adjacent to the pole is the U.S National Science Foundation Research center building, which also moves the same distance. The 65,000 sf building supports 140 research scientists for 6 months a year.  After those pics were taken we skied back to the dining tent and now await a clear weather day to return to Union Glacier camp and with some luck, return to Chili Tuesday night and back to normal life.

We brought the logos of many of our supporters on laminated cards and I was able to take pictures to thank our supporters for helping us connect over 5,000 children with cancer to their friends undergoing treatment.

As we ended our journey to the South Pole we thought of Hopecam Kid Reo. “Reo is a cancer hero, having to learn how to walk again and all other daily functions due to treatment. She loves to use her Hopecam device to stay in touch with her family as she has received most of her treatment 8 hours from home. When she gets home she looks forward to riding her horse, playing with her rabbits and dogs…and of course, hangout with her friends.” Today was for you Reo, we thought of your fight and how strong you are as we skied through the wind and fog to complete our journey to the South Pole.

Hopecam Kid Reo

Thank You to everyone that has supported Hopecam and help us connect over 5,000 children with cancer to their friends undergoing treatment.

10 Miles To Go

I am sitting in my Hilleberg barrell tent writing this report in my sleeping bag and eating a Chicken Pad Thai camp meal. The meal is actually not bad! It's -25F outside so just about everything we do in the tent requires engaging with the sleeping bag to stay warm.

It's our fifth full day of skiing and every day is pretty much the same. 7:30 am wake up with hot water thermos dropped off by either Ryan or Scott (our guides). They make the hot water every morning and evening by boiling ice in a pot with a liquid gas fuel connected to a burner. We use the hot water to make oatmeal in the morning & the freeze dried camp food in the evening. By 9:15 am we break camp, take down tents and pack sleds & go. We ski for 60 minutes in a line with a guide setting the course with a compass and GPS unit. Our breaks last ten minutes and at the minute mark we stop we quickly. We put on our heavy polar down jackets rates for -40F.  We take 5 breaks and ski six one hour segments. At the end of the last segment we set up camp.

So far we have covered 47 nautical miles with an average of 9.5 nautical miles daily. An earth mile is 20 percent longer.

Pulling a heavy sled across the ice while skiing takes some adjusting to. I dragged a tire in my neighborhood to train for the trip but this is different! The sled with sleeping bag, pad personal gear & food for 8 days weighs about 50 lbs. Add a tent and common gear for the team (fuel - shovel - tent pad etc) now weighs 70 lbs.

So today was sunny and breezy with -25 F temps. Not much changes day to day. At 4:00 pm the winds kicked up and dropped the temps to -40 F. This made for a not so fun camp set up as we all worked hard to build our shelters for warmth. So ONE last big ten mile push tomorrow and then an easy day Saturday.

So it's a logical question to ask: Why on earth would anyone put themselves in such a harsh and dangerous environment with such extreme conditions? While doing the same thing in and out day after day for 7 days in a stark and bleak moonscape environment and at the most remote corner on earth? Including the ridiculous expense, risks of frostbite - hypothermia - pneumonia etc?

I'm asking myself that question every morning. I believe in a way it's a test -

  1. The mental strength to overcome the boredom.

  2. The survival skills to thrive with very little equipment and the bare minimum gear. It's cleansing to discard all the comforts - and a way to appreciate them when I return.

  3. Camaraderie: Being on an 8 person team with very interesting people from around the world who share a common interest and we all have to work together to reach our goal.

  4. Rellive the experiences of the great polar explorers like Shackleton - AmundsenScott - Byrd. These men were discovering places no one had ever been. It's an honor to follow in their footsteps in a very smalll way.

  5. Honor others - we ski every day for a child with cancer and honor their struggle reminding them that even at a young age Hopecam kids inspire others to do hard things.

Today we honored Hopecam Child Eliza. “She was diagnosed with pre-b cell Acute Lymphoblastic Leukemia in August 2023 at 3 years old. She is now 4 years old and is currently in frontline chemo treatment in Northern Virginia. She is funny, energetic, outgoing, and loves making new friends. Her favorite things to do are going to the playground, ballet, dancing, going on nature hikes, cooking, and doing arts and crafts. She loves elephants, dinosaurs, rainbows, and fairies. She has perfected her scooter riding and puzzle-solving skills this fall and is super proud of that! Eliza loves her little baby sister Marlowe and loves to make her laugh and she wants to be a Doctor or Child Life Specialist when she grows up.” Today was for you Eliza as we dealt with the extreme cold temperatures, you helped us power through the very cold with your smile and resilience.

Hopecam Child: ELIZA - PRESCHOOL, HERNDON, VA

Threading The Needle

What a difference a day makes - when I went to bed last night I thought I was going to wake up with the flu. I felt horrible - aches & pains - sneezing - congestion & complete fatigue. Today was my strongest day yet! Thankfully I was able to lighten my load by 12 pounds with the help of my fellow team members and Ryan the team leader. 

That made a big difference & every stop we made I felt great.  We had our best day today covering 10 nautical miles and now we have 23 left. If we can keep this pace we should be 3 miles from the pole Friday night which will make Saturday a really fun day arriving around 12:00 noon.

We all look forward to celebrating the conclusion of the expedition. We have had absolutely perfect weather today.  Sunshine in abundance & absolutely NO WIND.

I had macaroni & cheese for dinner and will go to sleep at 10 pm and wake up at 6 am which has been the normal schedule. One thing that makes a big difference is hydration - it’s extraordinarily dry here so I try to drink 1 liiter of water before I go to sleep.

The strangest thing happened this morning. I borrowed a needle and thread from the guides to repair the cloth on my goggles. As I was threading the needle I went to tie off the end of the thread. When I looked back the needle was not on the thread. I searched everywhere! A loose needle in a tent is dangerous and I have an inflatable mattresss! I finally looked up at the goggles hanging on the clothes line and there was the needle securely connected to the foam. Maybe my guardian angel is here looking after me?

Thanks to all for the well wishes and prayers.

Today we covered 10 nautical miles for Hopecam Kid GABRIEL. He is in Grade 1 from Magnolia, TX. “No matter what Gabriel always has a smile on his face. He loves to play and is always active and he is a strong amazing fighter. For someone who went through as much as he has gone through it is still amazing how he can keep that smile on his face! He LOVES the color blue, Hot Wheels and monster trucks.” Today was for you Gabriel, keep fighting and smiling!

Hopecam Kid Gabriel

Half Way Point

We started the day with bright sun, mild wind and a long day ahead. We are slightly behind schedule and we plan to push hard to catch up so we end the day at the half way mark. I developed two quarter size blisters on each heel that are taped & better but they still hurt. Altitude slowed me down today so I'm back on Diamox. My most significant issue is fogging goggles!

The sun reflects on the snow & creates heat (solar radiation), so we need sunscreen under our noses here! We had perfect weather until 3 pm then the clouds rolled in and the wind picked up with a total white out (made by the blowing snow), but it finally cleared. The temperature fell 10 degrees. It's impossible to determine if it's snowing or just the existing snow is being blown about, but when it's a white out it you feel like you're skiing inside a ping pong ball.

I had a very heavy load carrying the tent + 8 lbs of fuel for the team. From the very first segment (6 one hour segments), I had a tough time keeping up. Fortunately Jeremy picked up the fuel & loaded it on his sled at the first break. Blisters seem to plague the team. Most everyone seems to be managing well. We have four Canadians from the Toronto and Ottawa area who are very experienced and among them are a father/son team. We reached the 1/2 way point today!

We honored Hopecam Kid Tahiry. Tahiry is an awesome skater, she loves Princess Poppy in the Trolls movie and she can bake you right out of your cupcakes. Her favorite color is purple with a little bit of pink. Your fight and resilience powered me through today as we trekked through the white out conditions.

HOPECAM KID TAHIRY - GRADE 2 FROM EXMORE, VA

10.45 Miles Today For Miles

We covered 10.45 miles (or 8.3 nautical miles) in 7.5 hours and I am super tired. I am making a dehydrated curry pad Thai for dinner and trying hard to eat but I have no appetite. The skiing is a total mind trip - 7 hours of the same thing every day - day after day. You have so much respect for Roald Amundsen, Robert Falcon Scott and Ernest Shackleton for doing this trek.

Amundsen was the first to reach the South Pole beating Scott by 2 days. Shackleford was shipwrecked for a year. Scott never returned as he perished during his expedition. Scott’s last note:

We took risks, we knew we took them; things have come out against us, and therefore we have no cause for complaint, but bow to the will of Providence, determined still to do our best to the last ... Had we lived, I should have had a tale to tell of the hardihood, endurance, and courage of my companions which would have stirred the heart of every Englishman. These rough notes and our dead bodies must tell the tale, but surely, surely, a great rich country like ours will see that those who are dependent on us are properly provided for. (Reference - Huxley, L., ed. (1913a). Scott's Last Expedition, Volume I. London: Smith, Elder & Co. OCLC 1522514)

This expedition is absolutely brutal physically and mentally. I thought it would be as tough as RAAM but I was wrong. RAAM was physically harder, this is mentally harder. Tomorrow is day 4 and at the pace we are on we will arrive to the South Pole on Saturday!

Today we honored Hopecam Kid Miles. Miles "rang the bell" on October 26th! It's been a long year, but he made it through brain surgery, radiation and 6 rounds of chemo. Miles I thought of you and your fight and you gave me the strength today to push through.

Hopecam Kid Miles

Camp Arrival

We made it to camp yesterday! The DC-3 landed safely with 10 climbers and 3 guides (3 not in our group). We landed at the Arctic Plateau at around 4:30 pm. The sky was clear with light wind - perfect conditions for the first day. We went to our tents and made dinner. We covered 2.1 nautical miles and everyone had a good day.

The landscape is super flat goes and forever. It's like being on another planet, like the moon. It's considered the most boring expedition. But I think it's like sailing across the Atlantic. The weather and conditions can change quickly and we have to adapt to whatever Mother Nature throws at us as we slowly get closer and closer to our destination.

We had a good second day today covering 7 Nautical miles in near perfect conditions. Cloudless sky and light wind with eternal sunlight. We broke camp at 9:30 am and skiied until 4:00 pm. Each team member is working together and typically we ski for an hour then take a ten minute break for fluids and nutriton.

Our sleds are full of our gear, sleeping tents and pads. Each of us haul five gallons of fuel for the stoves to melt snow. My biggest challenge is my goggles - they fog up quickly and I need to make a lot of micro adjustments on my face to get the fog to clear. No injuries or issues on day 2. It feels like we are traversing Mars. We stopped to take a picture with the photo of Hopecam Child Phoebe to dedicate this day to her. Since I am on my Garmin I can not send photos, when I get back to Union Glacier I will have the photos uploaded.

HOPECAM KID - PHOEBE - GRADE 4, LAUREL, MD

Leaving Union Glacier to the Arctic Plateau

Finally we are loading the plane and ready to walk over and board the DC3 twin prop plane for the 3.5 hour flight to the drop off point at latitude 89. We will arrive at about 3:30 pm, assemble our gear and ski a few miles until 5:00 pm before setting up our camp for the night. Our team took a photo together and honored Mason: our Hopecam child for today. Mason just finished treatment after a 30 months of medication - chemotherapy - blood tests etc. We are all praying for his recovery as we depart.

Leaving temperatures in the single digits at Union Glacier Camp to -30 degree temperatures on the Arctic plateau when we land. The cold and high altitude will make for a very difficult couple of days before we settle into a steady groove as we march (ski) south. The South Pole sits on top of 7,000 feet of ice at 9,300 ft above sea level - Amazing fact!

Wish us well!

Honoring Hopecam Child Mason today.

An Unforgettable Day at Union Glacier Camp

Last night was a mix of excitement and restless sleep for our team at Union Glacier camp. The perpetual sunlight at the South Pole kept the landscape brightly lit, making it hard to sleep even with a mask. This time of year, the South Pole basks in continuous daylight, a stark contrast to the prolonged darkness that commences in April.

Despite my lousy sleep, the day was packed with preparations. We packed up our freeze dried meals, practiced setting up and breaking down our tents, and tested our skis and sleds. The weather has been unexpectedly mild, with temperatures lingering in the low double digits and minimal wind. If this continues, our ski trek to the pole promises to be more pleasant than anticipated.

Union Glacier camp is currently a hub of serene activity, with only a few expedition and climbing teams either arriving or departing. Tomorrow, we're scheduled for a 3 1/2-hour, 600-mile flight that will drop us off at an elevation of 10,000 feet above sea level - literally in the middle of nowhere. We will fly in a DC-3 (Basler) which was originally used in 1944 by the Canadian Air Force to drop troops off by parachute in Normandy. It’s a totally mechanical aircraft and works perfectly in cold weather, operates by Canadian pilots who fly for Ken Borek airways.

In a special moment today, we paid tribute to 7-year-old Lizzie from Fort Worth, TX, who is bravely battling brain cancer and has undergone multiple surgeries in 2023. Her courage is an inspiration to us all as we embark on this journey.

Antarctica Expedition: From Ilyushin-76 to Boeing 757 - A Journey Begins

It's hard to believe how much can change in just five years. Back in 2018, as we were gearing up for our climb to Mt. Elbrus, our journey to Antarctica was an unforgettable adventure in itself. We were transported from Punta Arenas, Chile, to the frozen continent in a Russian military cargo plane known as an Ilyushin-76. The four-hour flight was a rollercoaster of emotions, with only two small portholes on each door, exposed cables running the length of the cargo hold, and the constant hum of the engines. It was a shaky, loud, cold, and, frankly, quite boring experience.

Fast forward to today, and here we are, preparing for another epic journey to Union Glacier Camp in Antarctica. But this time, things are different, and it's a testament to how much progress has been made in expedition logistics.

Our flight this afternoon is scheduled to land at Union Glacier Camp in Antarctica, and we're traveling in style this time. Instead of the Ilyushin-76, which felt like a relic from a bygone era, we're on a Boeing 757 operated by Antarctic Logistics & Expeditions (ALE). The flight is not only smoother but also comes with a touch of Iceland, as pilots from Iceland Airways are at the controls.

The landing itself is a thrilling experience. Imagine a 2-mile ice runway in the middle of nowhere, and landing on it requires a unique approach. Since regular brakes don't work well on ice, the plane slows down after touchdown solely by reversing the thrust. It's a remarkable display of precision and control.

Once we touch down, the adventure is far from over. It will take about an hour to unload the plane and transport our team the 2 miles to Union Glacier Camp. And what a camp it is! Nestled in the heart of the frozen wilderness, it offers surprising comforts. Hot showers, real toilets, and a team of chefs who take great pride in serving outstanding meals three times a day await us.  Our schedule for tomorrow includes essential preparations. We'll practice setting up and breaking down our tents and brush up on our skiing skills. The weather is always a wild card in Antarctica, so we want to be well-prepared for whatever Mother Nature throws our way. I experience this in 2018 when I was stuck at Mt Vinson base camp for two weeks awaiting the planes to return us to Union Glacier.

If the weather gods smile upon us, Saturday will mark the beginning of our exciting journey into the heart of Antarctica. The anticipation is palpable, and our team is filled with excitement and a sense of adventure. Our adventure is about to begin, and we can't wait to share our experiences from this icy wonderland with you. Stay tuned for more updates from the frozen continent.

The home where Ernest Shackleton helped raise the money to sail a ship to rescue his men stranded on the Antarctic shelf near Elephant Island.

Our Team - Missing Kai the woman from China who’s on the trip.

On Our Way!

South Pole Expedition Begins

My decision to attempt skiing to the North and South Poles began in February 2021, following a three-day training camp on a frigid Lake Granby in Colorado. The camp was led by the expert guide, Ryan Waters, the owner of Mountain Professionals Inc. Joining me for this training was my friend, Dr. Emily Farkas, whom I had met during a trip to Antarctica in 2018.

Our initial goal was to secure a spot on Ryan's team for a North Pole Expedition scheduled for April 2021, known as the "Last Degree" expedition. In this expedition, a plane or helicopter would drop our team off at Latitude 89, providing us with sleds, skis, and gear for a six-day journey to the North Pole. The traditional route to the North Pole typically involved traveling through Svalbard, Norway. This route included flying to Longyearbyen for preparations before taking a jet 1,200 miles to Camp Barneo, and then using helicopters to reach the 89th degree. Unfortunately, the 2021 season was canceled due to ongoing COVID-19 restrictions imposed by the Norwegian government. We attempted to plan for 2022, but the situation worsened when Russia invaded Ukraine, leading Norwegian officials to prohibit Russian-made and owned Antonov jets from flying through Norwegian airspace.

In February 2023, it appeared that the conflicts between Russia and the Norwegian Government had been resolved. Emily and I decided to participate in a three-day polar training camp in northern Minnesota to refresh our skills. However, just three weeks before the expedition was scheduled to begin, the Norwegian government denied approval for flights to Camp Barneo, making it clear that the North Pole was not an option at that time. Consequently, I redirected my focus towards the South Pole. After months of training and resolving scheduling conflicts, the expedition's start date was set for January 1, 2024.

The expedition officially began when I boarded a flight from Washington Dulles Airport to Houston. My son Matt dropped me off for the start of a 7,000 mile, 26 hour journey.  

Len with his son Matt

During the flight, the captain approached my seat and handed me a coin along with an envelope containing a letter from the crew, congratulating me for reaching 1,000,000 miles on United Airlines. I had been aware that I was approaching this milestone, but I had no idea it would coincide with the first segment of my journey to South America.

Upon arriving in Punta Arenas, on New year’s eve, ringing in the new year with a beer in my hotel room,  I met the team of seven adventurers and our co-lead guide, Scott Kress by midafternoon over New Year’s Day dinner. We will dedicate each day of the expedition to one of the children that Hopecam connected in 2023. Over the next few days we will settle into logistical briefings and making final preparations, while eagerly awaited confirmation for our flight to Union Glacier Camp in Antarctica, scheduled before Thursday, January 4th. Happy New Year!